The expression, “I felt like a kid on Christmas,” is supposed to describe the absolute wonder a child feels. The pure, sweet joy of knowing something so wonderful is happening just for you. That expression, was useless to me today. There are NO words, NO expression that can give an accurate account of what I felt. I don’t believe I have ever been happier in any moment.
Melinda, Sarah, Felicia and I woke up early to get breakfast before the adventure we knew was coming today. We wandered the streets in the medieval district until we came upon a bakery where I bought a raspberry tart for breakfast. It was incredible, of course, this is France after all. Who is better at pastries then the French? We met up with professor Canovas and he took us on another rail car up to Fourviere. Fourviere is one of the main hills in Lyon. It is dubbed ‘the praying hill.’ Walking out of the metro station up to the street, I had no idea what I was about to take in. Before me stood Notre-Dam de Fourviere, or Our lady of Fourviere, the main cathedral in the city. The massive building in its cold grey exterior towered over me with intense and commanding presence of an angel or other holy being themselves. I was overpowered and awe-struck. I stood trying to take in the massive structure as Canovas tried to usher us toward the view of the city.
Once there, he explained that sadly, we weren’t there to see the cathedral, we were there to start our tour of the history of the city. He promised another day we would go but not without relating a few wonderful stories of the indescribable place. He said the cathedral was built because of a promise. Lyon was home to two popes. It is also the home of the arch bishop of Lyon, (he is also considered a cardinal) which is the highest station next to the pope there is in France. One of those bishops had made a covenant with the Virgin Mary in the ancient days when hordes of barbarians from Eastern Europe threatened to invade southern France. He promised that if the Virgin Mother would give the city protection, he would build a cathedral purely dedicated to the virgin herself. This wasn’t a used concept back then, as most churches and cathedrals were only for the worship of Christ. When the city evaded invasion, the bishop kept his word and built the magnificent building we see today. It has two chapels, one upstairs and one down and on top of the building is an over 80 foot tall statue of Mary, completely gilded in gold leaf. The arch bishop comes every year to bless the holy city of Lyon, which in fact was the home of the papacy for many years. The next arch bishop is coming to bless the city this Thursday.
I suppose I should move on from the cathedral now. I had never been to one before, and I had never seen anything so beautiful. I was choked up and teary eyed at just the trivial glance I had at the interior. And I know you don’t think I could get much more excited about anything else I saw later that day, but you’re wrong. Professor Canovas has an incredible and extensive knowledge of the history of his city. When he told us about it you could feel his love, passion, and connection to his birthplace.
He started by telling us how the city was set up. Fourviere the hill we were standing on, and the other hill you can see from there, Croix Rousse (named for the giant red cross that had been painted on the hill hundreds of years ago) were the two first places inhabited by people before Christ ever came to the world. The Lyon valley is trapped between two of the largest mountain ranges in Europe. Any people of that time had to travel through the lush valley, where two groups settled. The first was the Galles a Celtic people that had moved down from the Celtic tribes of Northern France, England and Ireland. They settled on Croix Rousse at the edge of where the Roane and Soane river connected (it has later dried up and they connect further down now, making a peninsula). The second group was the Roman Empire. For years the two civilizations grew up staring at each other over the rivers, but never really came in contact. Eventually, for one reason or another, the two cultures started to merge. The Romans came bearing the Latin they spoke, and the Galles spoke a form of Gaelic. The two languages began to merge as well, and that is where basic French came from. The two civilizations thrived together under the Roman Empire’s rule and ended up being the birthplace of two Roman emperors as well. One of these emperors was the man who petitioned the roman senate to make the Galle people full-fledged Roman citizens. The action was passed and his speech was bronzed in a plaque that was later found and put in the Lyon museum.
The city was officially founded by the romans on the 10th, of October somewhere in the 40s B.C. The name Lyon, has no actual relation to the animal. Lyon is a shortened form of the original name of the city which was a combination of a Gaelic word for their god of light, and the Latin word for hill. The day it was founded, and the exact spot it was founded, was exactly where the sun’s axis passes over the hill. The Romans built a street, kind of like a main street or central avenue, following that axis perfectly. There is still a street there today. Where the cathedral stands today, was a huge temple dedicated to the Roman Gods. There were two theaters built, bath houses, and an amphitheater; the ruins of which still stand today. We got the opportunity to see the theaters and the bath houses. The theaters have been fully excavated and are still used today. There is a celebration each summer in Lyon where they celebrate their heritage and put on plays and shows in the old theaters. They are incredible to behold. They had paved streets leading up to them, with chariot wheel gashes and worn indents completely visible in the stones. The orchestra pit was completely preserved. And in the smaller theater, most likely reserved for the noblemen and extreme upper class people, the orchestra pit floor was made out of chunks of marble. These chunks of marble weren’t just white, they were colored. The colors of the far reaches of the Roman Empire: yellow from northern Italy, spotted from southern Italy, green from Greece, and red from Egypt. Lyon was the capital of the Roman Empire more than once. And when the political power moved away after the conversion of the empire to Christianity, Lyon remained the holy city of the empire. That isn’t quite where the strong history of Catholicism started however. In years after Christ, and the word of Christianity spread, a few people throughout the city were converted. And in those days, just like you read in the Bible they were discriminated against. They first were excluded from politics, then public meeting places like the bath houses, and finally exterminated. The amphitheater built on Croix Rousse (across the river from the temple and other theaters) was used as an execution ground for Christians as they were thrown in the pits with lions for spectator’s pleasure. Later when the city became the Catholic stronghold, the site was blessed as the first place of Christian martyrs in France. The deaths included the very first bishop of Lyon, and a young girl named Blondine. They have become large symbols for the Lyon religious scene.
Once things got complicated again, and wars made their way into the Roman Empire, the beautiful city on the hill started to fall to ruin. The aqueducts the romans built were getting knocked out, or out of use. Without a constant fresh water supply the people had to migrate down to the river’s edge. The people were safer behind a wall they built near the water’s edge. And with years of neglect, the roman city fell into ruins and was buried. After that point, the city began to spread sideways along the riverbank. The island (which is now the peninsula, remember) was used as a way to transport goods up from the Mediterranean Sea and put them on the island which became full of warehouses and shops. As time went on, the city grew up Croix Rousse, which is dubbed ‘the working hill.’ This hill became a place of business. There became less and less room at the base of Fourviere hill and the city needed a working district to expand to, which is what Croix Rousse became. Later after the middle ages that hill became the perfect and most productive place to produce silk in all Europe. But that’s getting ahead of the Gallo-Roman time period, which is mainly what I saw and wanted to talk about today.
I don’t know how to tell you how it felt to run my hand across a stone hand carved by a man alive before Christ was even born. I don’t know how to tell you what I saw as I looked over the city and saw the layer upon layer of history. I don’t know to tell you what it is like to be so closely intertwined with history you can feel a connection I’ve never had before. The love for history I’ve always had has intensified tenfold today. I never knew I could be so in love with a place. Sitting in the theater today, was a feeling I cannot and will NEVER forget.
Canovas took us also to different parts of the medieval district we hadn’t seen yet; we will be covering the medieval period of the city tomorrow. He showed us an old baroque church that was stained with what looked like black tears, and overrun with foliage. And he showed us the second bishop of Lyon’s tomb witch is only about a block away from our dorms. Overall, the best day yet, and its only Monday of our history tour!! I can’t wait to learn everything else I can. I am so blessed to be here, and especially for professor Canovas to be my teacher.
Love you all. Sorry about my history rant. You’ll get them all week. Haha…